Ok, oh Volkswagen Gods!!!
I am in need of your wisdome and expertise...
I have a slight problem with my cabby.
1. When starting the car when its cold, it started to sputter and act like it was going to die. Then I discovered that there was electrical connector that was disconnected. (Please see Photo links 1-3.) It seemed that after I re-connected the wire, it started to start up fine. Well after a couple of days, it started to sputter again whenever the car is cold and the wire is still connected. It also dies sometimes if I dont warm it up for at least 10 min.
2. I dont know what the heck this blown out part is......(see photo links 4-6)
I dont know if this is contributing to the problem 1 or what. I looked throughout the repair book and couldnt find this part anywhere.
Can someone please identify this part so that I can replace it?
Or do i even need it?
ok, first red arrow. Those are commonly refered to as the salt/pepper shakers. They are part of the cars vacuume system. Having one of those unplugged will give you some trouble.
What you might also want to check is the thermo-time switch, I'll have to get a picture of that for ya. If that goes bad, cold starts are a real biznatch since thats what tells the cold start injector to squirt some extra fuel in the engine. Many other things can contribute to hard cold starts as well (poor battery, bad grounds, faulty sensors, bad vocuum lines, the list goes on).
The second set of pics, well from what I see, it looks like you car had cruise control at one time and that part is the vacuum actuator (not sure what the proper name is, thats what I call it). That part basicly would squish up due to vacuum and hold a rod connected to the throttle body in place which in turn held the trottle open at whatever point you set the cruis control too. It's not a needed part if you don't want the cruise control system to stay on the car. I on the other hand will be trying to restore the cruise control system on the wifes cabby since it had it and was missing that part. Recently aquired those bits and at some point, I'll be fooling with it.
ok, first red arrow. Those are commonly refered to as the salt/pepper shakers. They are part of the cars vacuume system. Having one of those unplugged will give you some trouble.
idle boost valves. the front one is for ac, the back one is for when it's cold...i think, i can't remember. i took them both out of my cab. i don't have ac anymore so i didn't need the front one, and i redid my vacuum system so i could remove the back one.
If you can't beat them, drop the top and pimp by 'em!
85 Mercedes 500SEL grey market euro
Bunch of GM crap
In need of a VW lol
I am waiting on some followup thread on this.
Talk to us.
I have a Dignafart system but if I can identify some of this stuff I can deal with it. The VW sealership did something to my idle and you have to pop the accelerator to get the idle to drop on my Cabby. I have a new needle valve and "O" ring on its way to my front door (maybe will be here tomorrow) but I think it is something more than that. I never had an idle problem before I paid $1000.00+ to some overpaid grease monkey to touch my car. Now it idles at 2 grand until I stomp the gas. The salt and pepper is of interest because I eliminated the A/C and I probably do not need one of these solenoids connected to the system any longer. I have modified my vacuum system considerably with no negative effects (until VW touched it) and if I could eliminate another idle solenoid system it would be great.
You let the stealership work on your car, they are supposed to make sure it idles correctly when they are done. I would call up that service writer and check with him about bringin the idle back down to earth. Do that before you have to shell out any more $$ and you own time trying to fix it. I think you said they put in a new distributor in another thread, if they didn't adjust the timing on the dizzy correctly, that could account for the high idle.
make sure your distributor is in the right place too, mine has vibrated enough to come loose a little, then turned and it was revving around 2500 rpms, took me awihle to figure out it was just the distributor, i turned it a little and she idled just like she used to.
Since I reconnected the pepper shaker back, the car runs fine......when warm.
I still have a problem when trying to drive when the car is cold.
Typically I should be able to start the car and go....if I wanted to.
But I usually let the car warm up for 5 min to get the juices flowing and then proceed to drive.
During the warm up, the rpms dont go that high. They stay around 1100rpm....is that normal? Shouldnt it be higher on a cold start?
If I try to give it gas to raise the rpms, it acts as if its being flooded and then bogs down a lil.....but never dies.
After 5 min, the car isnt completely warm, and I try to drive the car sputters upon take off.
Does this sound like the cold start sensor or what?
Any help on this would be great!
Update: I found a place in So Cal that will sell me an complete 8v 2.0 ABA engine for $450. Is that a good deal?
$450.00 sounds good. Do they have any info. on it like how many miles it has on it, compression specs. before they pulled it out etc. ? Will they warranty it if you get it in and there isn't any oil pressure? Ask questions.
91 Cabriolet, red w/white
86 Cabriolet white/white (oldest daughter)
97 Golf, black (youngest daughter)
98 Beetle, red
94 Cabrio, dark green (oldest son) Cogito Ergo Zoom
Since I reconnected the pepper shaker back, the car runs fine......when warm.
I still have a problem when trying to drive when the car is cold.
Typically I should be able to start the car and go....if I wanted to.
But I usually let the car warm up for 5 min to get the juices flowing and then proceed to drive.
During the warm up, the rpms dont go that high. They stay around 1100rpm....is that normal? Shouldnt it be higher on a cold start?
If I try to give it gas to raise the rpms, it acts as if its being flooded and then bogs down a lil.....but never dies.
After 5 min, the car isnt completely warm, and I try to drive the car sputters upon take off.
Does this sound like the cold start sensor or what?
Any help on this would be great!
Update: I found a place in So Cal that will sell me an complete 8v 2.0 ABA engine for $450. Is that a good deal?
Jim
I am still having this problem, does anyone know what it could be?
I cleaned out the CIS pin per http://www.vintagewatercooleds.com/tech ... cismaf.htm
this didnt seem to help.
This is exacly what it does:
Upon startup, the idle never goes high like it should, it actually stays below 1000rpm. After about 30 sec, the idle drops, almost causing the car to shut down, then comes back up to just under 1000rpm. It repeats this about 3-4 times before stabling out.
Any help on this would be great.
Thanks
Calimus wrote in awhile back and suggested the thermo-time switch and I agree that this could be your problem. You need to make absolutely sure that you have no ground issues before you condemn an expensive part though. If you have a Bentley service manual you can trace the wires back to the source of power/resistance to the thermo-time switch. Make sure you have continuity through the wires following the diagram for the circuit. Many times I have had a customer replace all the parts they "thought" were the problem, only to find a bad ground or a broken wire. If the thermo time switch is operational, then you can pull the cold start valve and check for volume and spray pattern. The thermo time switch tells the cold start valve when to spray and for how long. If you have any more questions let us know.
91 Cabriolet, red w/white
86 Cabriolet white/white (oldest daughter)
97 Golf, black (youngest daughter)
98 Beetle, red
94 Cabrio, dark green (oldest son) Cogito Ergo Zoom
on the back of the intake manifold is a black connector which powers the auxiliary air regulator. this works only when your engine coolent temp is below 35*C, or 80*... i forget... anyway, it operates when your car is cold and coudl be the reason your revs are lower than you expect during the warm-up cycle. try disconnecting it and going through your usual startup proceedure - if the problem is exactly the same, then you've found the cause.
IIRC the thermo-time switch connects to the cold start valve, and so you can test if this is operational by unplugging the cold start valve's electical connector. i suspect that wont be the problem since these items only work for the first 15 seconds or so, enough to get the engine cranked and firing. you say the problem happens for 5 minutes, but CIS is a bish and that's why I've just ripped it all out.
a third potential problem areas is a partially-clogged or failing WUR/CPR. if that is on the way out you'll usually find that the car will start, but idle low and die if you give it any gas at all. but that doesn;t sound much like your problem, i'd start with the air regulator.
Thought of this on the way home. Park the car on a downhill slope nose down. This keeps fuel in the lines and pressure on the fuel distributor. There is a check valve in the fuel pump and if it goes bad it makes the morning starts a killer. The best part of this test is it's quick and cheap.
91 Cabriolet, red w/white
86 Cabriolet white/white (oldest daughter)
97 Golf, black (youngest daughter)
98 Beetle, red
94 Cabrio, dark green (oldest son) Cogito Ergo Zoom
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v498/ ... CF0442.jpg
